Thursday, November 13, 2008

131108 – Sihanoukville

131108 – Sihanoukville

This morning started a little easier than yesterday. While Paul had decided to start learning how to snore, I didnt have the rolling thunder of a hang-over. Prodding my roomie until he realised it would be a good idea to stop, snoozing continued for another hour or so.

Me: Whats this thing?
Brain: Oh, its a watch..
Me: Whats it do?

*groan* OI! PAUL! Youve got 10 minutes before the others leave for the National Park Tour
*groooooooooan* thanks mate..

It was now unaviodable, the day had begun.

Taking care not to perform any rash actions, like leaving the hotel room too early, I worked through a little repacking and a light rehab workout. Im still trying to work-off the set-back caused by my food-poisoning experience, itll still take at least a few weeks though. One day of throwing up in bed and I was back to feeling shaky by the time I finished the exercises.. sigh

Having convened with Andy and Katie, there was the real possibility of beach, breakfast, hunting for lobster and then taking a Tuk-Tuk out to the prettier, more secluded beach. There was the vague agreement to meet up when we all decided to go.. probably not going to happen.

Now to get onto what Ive been doing for the last two hours, please excuse my blatant bragging and grinding of salt into the wounds of my friends working back home..

Dropping off the key, its only a short walk out of the front gate, past the round-about and up the hill. Every minute or so, a local will pull past and ask if you would like a motorbike, tuk-tuk, ride, need to go somewhere and so on. This is always performed in a suprisingly pleasant and friendly manner. A smile and shake of the hand is all it takes and they move on. There isnt the harrassment that was common in Vietnam, they dont hound or stalk you half-way up the street, they dont start trying to offer you women or drugs. A smile and a wave, everyone goes on their way.

Passing the little restaurant where we met for the boat-ride, I noticed the others were still there. Wandering in, I couldnt tell if they had already eaten or were still waiting. There were a few hung-over eyes and I chatted with Kate, finding out that they would be back some time after sunset.

Making my way further on, I caught myself wishing that there were a few more of the others that werent toxically hung-over. It would be nice if there was some company for breakfast. Though, this way I would only be ignoring the conversation of the ocean while I wrote my journal.

Passing the last gaggle of Tuk-Tuks, I smiled at their business proposals and pointed at the last 20m to the beach when they asked where I was going. Smiles and chuckles were shared on both side of the cultural divide. Dodging between a little shop (ooh, can get water here on the way back!) and a couple of bars, I was on the sand.

The stretch of bars, clubs and restaurants stretches for about 2 kilometers down the coast. Most of the beach-chairs and eateries are empty, considering the early hour and the full-moon festival of last night. There is still a healthy mix of locals riccochetting between scantily clad westerners, platters of fruit on their head or trying to sell manicures or sunglasses. The sand is white, the sea is warm.

Stopping on the concrete patio of a restaurant, my sandals come off. The narrow strip of sand is damp enough that it is not hot, the lapping of the water is no reason to jump out of the way. After the first foot-bath, I take a small step closer to the water so that the gentle embrace of the ocean is familiar a little more often.

The tourists here dot the beach, buying goods or services from the locals, snacking on breakfast meals or waiting for drinks to arrive. The boys pretend to not look at the girls, the girls pretend to not notice the boys. Beached whales recline next to a model having a quiet holiday, couples alternate between scoping out the talent walking by and growling at their partner for doing the same. By the time Ive decided on breakfast, 200 europeans are roasting in a great strip-mine of future skin-cancer.

The ocean, deep, blue and beautiful stretches out to a horizon that I want to touch. Islands that are no longer strange to me guard the view to my left and a silky shadow is faint on my right horizon. Speaking quiety of distant places, of the beauty that I am surrounded by, of the long voyage to home. The petite waves troll up and down the shore, wet and almost thick they bring in a tiredness that you didnt realise you were feeling. Bringing you rest, they draw back out to sea, taking the sharp tingle of stress from you without any regard for your consent. This is the ocean and you are only mortal, here it is kind. Allow it to do with you as it pleases.

Finding Charlotte and Andy oozed out on chairs beneath a particularly broad umbrella, we exchange notes on the seriousness of the situation. Breakfast is mentioned, lobsters are discussed. I retreat a little further from the coast, finding a table and a waiter to order from. Promises of coffee and home-made muesli are punctuated by the screams of a jet-ski.

As I sit and start to type, the ocean continues its relentless onslaught. Locals walk by, selling fruit, sunglasses and nail-care. Children with beads for sale or strings of cans to recylce walk by, quietly scoping out any bleeding-hearts in the crowd. The coffee is strong and sweet, the cerial has enough fruit to please a cardiologist. It is still too early for a Mojito, but the sun is warm and the sea might forgive me. Only if I go for a swim in its sleepy folds.

This is the instant that I have searched for. I wish Jenny was here. I wish my friends from university could have even just a second of this, a respite from study. This one second is perfect, the gentle purr of the water as the rhythm, the shifting chairs and music from a nearby bar offering a quiet melody. A chorus of excited screams and laughter playing on queue, the wind its conductor.

I think the ocean will forgive a midday mojito, but only if I promise to make it up to her. This afternoon will be spent in exhaultation to her, in here quiet and secluded beaches. There will be a lunch of lobster, that we all promised each other. There will be an afternoon of drinks and protracted homage to the sea.

This will be a beautiful day.

121108 - Sihanoukville

121108 - Sihanoukville

It took a couple of alarms to get me up this morning, last night had been large and sleep had not been enough. We were meant to be meeting for breakfast for the boat trip, Kevin appeared carrying a monstrous hangover to check that I would be on my way shortly. Having conducted my morning routine, Vickie was in a bad mood and grumbling when I got to the restaurant, I was a few minutes late but not the last to arrive. I responded by being overly cheerful, gaining some sadistic pleasure at watching a couple of hang-overs start to curdle.

Breakfast was a delicate affair, coffee that desperately needed milk, more sugar and less burn along with some banana pancakes that were passable though only rumoured to contain banana. The number of ripe hangovers in the group left a handful of pancakes unfinished. That didnt stop them from buying a case of beer from the restaurant, Adam and myself restrained. This would be a very long day for some.

As soon as we finished eating, we met the three others who would be joining us. They were on the Intrepid trip in the opposite direction in a group of 16. While walking to the boat we made introductions. I met Marek who was from Norway, I later found out he was a Doctor. Alex was a pretty and chatty girl from the UK, she was on holidays from the rut back home and worked in a childrens nursery. She was investigating going back to study child psychology. Through Alex, I chatted to Julia who was a medical graduate from ANU. Having studied in Jos class, we compared stories of our mutual friends and I caught up on everything they had been doing since I spoke to them last in January. All of my ANU friends seem to have made great strides and I made a mental note to email them over the next few days.

By this point we had walked over the hill and along the beach to the boat. The beach was just as white as yesterday and the various establishments were catering for their few guests that were suitably sentient at this time of the day. The boat was fairly basic, a long hull with a handful of benches for seating. A frame and lines held a tarpoline about a foot above sittting head hieght, to offer some shelter for the day. Two 11HP small stationary engines were mounted on hinged platforms, their drive-shafts connected to long poles with a propellor at the end.

The boat ride out took about half an hour, we rode the gentle surf along and across the bay. Dropping anchor on the mainland side of a small island, the crew dropped fishing lines and we adorned masks and snorkels. Alex hung back on the boat, not confident in ocean swimming. Sat braved the unknown and climbed in for a bit of a paddle. Adam surfaced and announced it was about 10m depth, no one held onto their mask for long as the visibility was dreadful.

Having swam for about half an hour, we slowly accumulated on the deck. The crew had caught some little fish which were proudly displayed. The anchor was hauled in and one of the engines moved us on.

We arrived at the island about another 30 minutes later. Crew helping us off the boat and asking us to take our bags with us. I chatted with Marek and Sat just under an hour while the others swam or played ball games. Having graduated 2-3 years ago, Marek and I compared features of our respective medical and education systems. The conversation flowed on as we all met at a bungalo for lunch. The chicken kebabs with rice and salad was most welcome and left many of us feeling a little drowsy. While most of the group walked through to the other side of the island, I occupied a hammock and daydreamed.

About an hour or so after lunch, the others reappeared. We packed up at a leasurely pace and accumulated back on the boat. The trip home took about 45 minutes, gently surging through the sea as some of the brits roasted themselves on the fore-deck. While it was a poor-cousin to the tales of the boating day in Nha Trang, it had been a lovely excursion.

Back at the bay, the two Intrepid groups bid farewell. Julia and I agreed to do the facebook thing, Id have more than a couple of emails to get out. Our group wandered down the beach until depositing ourselves at a bar. I still didnt feel like making the afternoon a heavy one, heading back to use the internet instead.

Following Paul and one of the girls, we tried an internet cafe that was also a bookshop before moving onto one that appeared to have a bit better speed. The next few hours were filled with calls to home, Jenny, banking and trying to sort out a hire-car for my time in Bega. Id desperately needed to hear Mum and Jennys voices and was missing home by the time I finished up. Id finally gotten the new flight dates for my option, Dec 11 and 24.

We met for dinner back at the same cafe as our first lunch. I got there a little early and was shortly joined by Charlotte and Vickie, they seemed to be getting along again. Kevin wasnt far behind and we soon had the whole team. This time almost everyone ordered Amoke dishes, the particularly tasty one that Id had for the first lunch. Sat and I split an Amoke and a Green Curry. We had Sophie join us for splitting some spring rolls and deep-fried shrimp.

The dinner was pleasant enough, everyone was still feeling a little hung-over or ill. I dont think there was the energy to be snarky. The volume of dishes they had to produce meant that the Amoke was a little less remarkable than yesterday, lacking a little bit of OOMPH. It was still pleasant enough and performed its duties admirably.

As the group paid and dispersed, I went back to the hotel to chill for a little bit. Charlotte came back with Andy, she needed to relieve me of a little buscopan for her tummy. I think everyone has been ill at least once on this trip and some have suffered more than others. After vegging out for about an hour, I wandered back up and over the hill to join the others.

Wandering along the beach, I finally found the rest of the group at the Sessions bar. By this point, most of them were through their first bucket of mixed spirits (think equivalent of a small jug). There were firespinners practicing their trade with staffs, most of us had a shot at it as well. I gave up pretty quickly, Id trained with the Bo staff a few years ago but couldnt do most of showy stuff Id learned without getting my hands into the fire-regions. Adam seemed to enjoy being the showy one of the group.

There were a liberal selection of drinks making their way around the table, I sampled the RedBull and Vodka bucket that came my way as well as the Gin & Tonic that was forced into my hands. I didnt really want to spend any money tonight and certainly didnt want to have a big one.

The only real motivation for making attendance tonight was for the Full Moon party. A Budhist monthly celebration, we were told that this was the most significant one for the year. Hoping to see something showy, I stuck around till midnight for the supposed event.

As the night drew on, the fire-spinners were more daring in their displays, the drinks were more liberal and the group plus guide got more drunk. I kept to myself, making conversation and just chilling out. As midnight dres on, the fire-spinners soaked the sign SESSIONS in kerosene before standing it up on posts a few metres out into the sea. As the clock hit the hour, they put on their display of fire-staffs and dancing on the other side of the metal letters, breathing fire to light up the sign. By this point, Kevin had disappeared to a nearby shrine to pray.

Watching the fire-dancers, we missed the actual Full Moon ceremony. Quietly taking place with our backs turned. Supposedly, it is comprised of the locals holding up incense and fruits as offerings to the moon. Prayers and intentions are made for the next month. Simple and brief.

With midnight been and gone, I hung around for a little more before making my way back. Id been tired well and truly before this point and it was only the promise of the Full Moon Party that got me down here.

I walked Vickie back to the hotel, I get the impression that she was in a similar mindset regarding the events of the evening.

111108 – Home stay to Sihanoukville

111108 – Home stay to Sihanoukville

Today was meant to start at 0645, supposedly it would be breakfast at the Eco-Tourism park and then the walk to the waterfall deep within its boundaries. However, I do not doubt that the extra carton of beer from the night before had some say in the activities of the morning.

Sometime before dawn, Id started to get cold and for some reason thought my mosquito net was a sheet. Waking up several hours later, I found myself half covered by its protective layer. Readjusting it and unfolding the blanket, I was soon much more comfortable. The alarm clock at 630 was the sound of pigs squealing in delight at their breakfast and a couple of roosters competing for dominance of the yard.

Getting downstairs at about 7, I waited with Andy Bailey and Paul. Paul retreated into his music player before long and Andy started engaging the local kids. Taking photos and playing little games, he seemed to be a real hit. One of the little boys was showing everyone his favourite toy, a long stick with a Y-branch on the end and a tin can mounted between its points. He truly loved it deeply and was very proud of it.

I got out my camera out and both Andy and myself took some photos of the little crowd of shy, smiling faces. Leaving him to his audience, I went over and started trying to talk to the farmer. Using simple words, I showed him photos of Mum and Dad, Stephanie, Jenny and me. We managed to talk about our families and farms using no words more than Mamma, Pappa, Big, Small and Pig. We took photos of each other with the farming tools and his little property.

Leaving Nee to get back to fixing his motor bike, I waited with the others. The bus arrived about half an hour late and Andy took a snap of me with the farmer and his wife. I quite enjoyed this little encounter with the locals, there were too few opportunities to have such moments without being drenched with tourism rubbish.

The bus ride was the same as yesterday, we made it to the bridge and walked the rest of the way. A breakfast of bread, egg and onion omlette, bananas and suprisingly excellent instant coffee was waiting for us. A little cold from our lack of punctuality, it was an excellent breakfast and I certainly felt much better for having eaten. I think I was alone in my opinion of the morning, there were some seriously bad moods in the group and roaring hangovers.

Yesterday, there had been a fair bit of excitement at the suggestion of going to the waterfall. That attitude had reversed today and it was a struggle to get enough of us for the guide to be included. Katie, Paul, Matt, Vickie and myself were the only participants.

There was a very acceptable path the whole way through the forrest and it was an incredibly beautiful walk. It was still too early for any of the vendors to have set up their little stands for visitors to buy drinks and snacks from. Our guide was quite friendly and spoke incredibly legible english, though his vocabulary definitely needed some more work. It was several kilometers to the waterfall, the last one was through the mountain itself. The guide gave me the Eco Tourism speech that I am sure he had been given in training. In the background was the sound of a nearby river, the mix of trees, vines and bamboo painted a poetic picture as we progressed. The hill itself was a pleasant climb, the path was well marked and there was a fair bit to see.

Climbing up and down the folds of the mountain, the sound of the waterfall began to grow louder. The forest had turned into something like a rain-forest as we descended the last set of stairs. Mist hung heavy in the air and there was moisture on everything. Vines and creepers had been trimmed of their barbs for the benefit of travellers to the area, suddenly we were there. The Waterfall broke through the trees in an amazing panorama, we made it down the last few steps and were standing nearly beneath it. The great roar of an impossible volume of water pounding down the 40 metres onto the rocks below, such force dashing the water up into the air in greatt drifts of mist. There was no real pool at the base, simply rocks that seperated the little torrents of water. Continueing to follow the suggestion of gravity, these torrents rushed around the surrounding rocks and formed small rivers sprinting down the slopes and off into the forrest.

Still cautious of my knee, especially after the effects of my brush with food-poisoning, I stayed near the stairs while the others climbed out on the rocks. The amount of water in the air was impressive, all of them were saturated before reaching the particular view they desired. Soaked to the bone, with they great cascade above them, I looked on with envy while they took photographs and lingered for a while.

Their minds filled with waterfalls, we regrouped at the base of the stairs and started the return journey. This was a little slower than the walk before, those in the lead frequently stopping for those behind. Soaking wet, with the temperature and humidity on the rise, it would be a very squelchy trip back. Most of the group had worn flip-flop sandals, now a problem as the spiders and bugs of the region started to warm up and look for breakfast. There more than a few squeals by one of the girls as creepy-crawlies fled for cover.

At first in the front, then dropping back. I eventually walked with just the guide. One of the girls hadnt appreciated me teasing her about the wisdom of wearing thongs with spiders about, two of the other travellers had began a comparative analysis of PhotoShop. The guide and I walked in a mix of silence and his attempts at teaching me Khmer. We smiled and waved at the Cambodian travellers and local stall owners on the trip back. I took my time and for the first time, for a long time, felt like I was ACTUALLY travelling. Travelling, rather being a spectator on a Contiki Shag-Fest.

I was in a much better mood when I got back to the group. We all said our goodbyes and took photos with the locals. A few minutes later we were back at the bus and off to pick-up Sat and Miff, who had opted to sleep in. The obligatory throwing around of bags to make seating available was all that delayed our departure.

Heading out of the village, we passed children playing at the bridge. Squealing in delight and waving madly as we drove past and took photos, some of them tried chasing the bus or just jumped up and down and laughed. The rest of the trip as a whole consisted of snoozing, daydreaming out of the window, dropping of the esky from the night before, more driving and chilling out. We were told it would be about 2 hours to get to Sihanoukville.

After dropping the esky off at the little shop from the day before, I assume we took a different route to head to the sea. It was a long drive and everyone was still more than a little tired.

About halfway through the trip, there was a noise and a sudden sluggishness of the bus. Pulling over, the driver and Kevin got out, an inspection of the tires revealed the driver-side rear outer tire had blown a wall. Having Duals on the rear wheels meant we could progress on to the next market-place to get it repaired. Im not sure if they might have had the facilities on the bus, I somewhat doubt it.

Driving at a crawl for the next 20 minutes, we arrived at a little road-side complex. Consisting of an open fronted, corrugated iron shed and a small canteen a dozen metres off to one side, it was a simple afair. We disembarked to make use of the cheap drinks at the canteen while the workers set to the task. The shed had the familiar smell of mud, oil, grease and animals. The appearance and feel of the building and the equipment housed within it could very easily have been directly transplanted from any one of a hundred farm-workshops that I have been in. It was uncanny and made me more than a little nostalgic, the machinery and structures of this place were so much like that I grew up with. Even the humidity, temperature and feel of the place could easily have been an misserable overcast Pingrup day in Autumn or Spring.

Having completed their duties, Kevin passed on that we could get back on. We finished our chilling out at the canteen, gulped down the last of our cold-drinks and grabbed bottles of water. It would be another hour and a half to the Beach.

The rest of the drive was mostly unremarkable. We passed a couple of mansion complexes that had been long since deserted. There were one or two resorts showing signs of neglect as we got closer to the coast. The main feature of the road had been the high walls found along random stretches. Walls that had not been filled in at the base (started at head-hieght) or were missing metal work to fill in the top. The solid fences were only along the road, the rest of each perimeter might be ring-lock, bamboo or non-existent.

We saw the ocean first while crossing over a hill, we were finally within reach of our destination. There were more impressive buildings, Kevin relating some stories regarding the owners and influential people who were involved. Sihanoukville itself appeared to be remarkably spread out, there was an impressive amount of construction taking place and the giant vacant lots seemed to be placeholders for future development.

Pulling in next to a giant roundabout with two gold-coloured statues of lions, we had arrived at our hotel.

Disembarking and checking in, the concensus was to have half an hour to shower and freshen up. Then, lunch.

Paul and I were mercifully in a groundfloor room to the back of the complex. Smelling faintly mouldy, it had air conditioning and was more comfortable than much of my previous accomodation. We dumped gear, cleaned up and went back to the front office.

Lunch was at a restaurant where Kevin knew the owners. Promptly seated and ordering fruit-shakes, we marvelled at the menu of western and local food. Hearing the words It comes out in a coconut, I followed our guides suggestion and ordered the Chicken Amoke. There were more than a few orders of cheeseburgers, various fish-dishes, so on.
The fruit-shakes were gone, the plate of deep-fried shrimp that Matt orderd as an Entre had been eviscerated. The food was taking a little while to appear.

Finally, the wait was over.. Indeed, it DID come in a coconut. The top had been cut in a circle and was used as a lid.

WOW...

I mean... WOW WOW!!!

Chicken Amoke is remarkably similar to a Thai Red Curry. A little more subtle but with a hint of extra bite, it was a singly most delicious meal that I would not soon forget. Foregoing fork and spook, the first taste resulted in me dumping half of the rice directly into the coconut. Stirring it around with the little laddel I had been provided with, I ate it straight out of the great round fruit. The little laddel was an excellent eating implement, well suited for the task, allowing me to offer the occasional dip to my friends. There was a mix of wonder and jealousy in response, I have the sneaking suspicion that many more of this particular dish will be ordered in the future.

Lunch done and check completed, we moved en-masse to the beach. It was a short walk up the hill, past a number of internet cafes, bars and restaurants. Dozens of Tuk-Tuks and motorbikes called us to hire them, a smile and wave of No had them moving on with no hard feelings. At the top of the hill, we continued straight. The sealed road curved to the left and we followed the gravel street straight down the hill. Passing little shops that sold cloathing, music, hair-cuts, swimsuits and the like, we stopped off to buy a frisby, tennisball and volley-ball. Passing a couple of hotels and restaurants, there was a little dodge between some close buildings that marked the end of the gravel. Suddenly, we were on the beach.

Stepping onto the sand, there would be litterally a hundred little bars and cafes stretching down the coast. Everything from small hotel complexes and guest-houses, to shanties that had a bar at the back. Chairs and seats dotted the narrow stretch of sand between establishments and water, one place even had a little tree-house out the front!

We started walking along, looking for inspiration. It was only a minute or so before footwear came off and we waded through the water. It was beautiful and warm, clear and tranquil. Before long we came to an establishment called something like Musslies. It had free pool and a series of tables with comfy-chairs condensed out of thin air, it was a sign. Also, it was Happy Hour.

Dropping gear with the non-swimmers, they ordered drinks and most of us dived into the surf.

Ive had baths colder than this.

The water was as wonderful as it had been alluring from the shore. We swam around and games started soon enough, the cheap frisby paying for itself in short order. Diving about, there was nothing that could be faulted about the place. Heading in after a suitable time, we sat on the great round chairs with their deep cushions and dried in the sun. Beer was $0.50 and cocktails were all $1.50.

To our great delight, about an hour into our chill-out session, Kevin appeared with Sophie in tow. She had just arrived and had been sorely missed by the group as a whole. She took a spot in the group and we all started to play catch-up. Andy B was especially happy to see her, they were quite close and he was glad to get his watch back.

The next three hours was spent lashing out, there would have been at least 4 Mojitos and just as many beers to fill the time. The cocktails were strong enough to strip paint, doing a wonderful job at accompanying the sun disappearing into the overcast sunset. Most of the group was taking Doxycycline to protect against malaria, which also acts to make you a cheap drunk. Letting my hair down, I didnt fly quite as far below the radar. The snarkier members of the group quickly found out that my sense of humour was not as bland as Id been broadcasting and suitably sharp conversation had a couple of the others thinking that had to get me tipsy more often :p

As the time passed, the urchins appeared. Most of the group haggled to get knotted wrist bands that had the Cambodian flag featured in it. Watching them made, while entertaining myself with another Mojito, we were all suitably impressed. There were the promises on both sides to seek each other out to Only buy from me!! or to seek us out to sell other gifts. Finally it was time for dinner and we wandered around until we stumbled on the restaurant that Kevin had negotiated for us.

We were a little disappointed on being seated. The owner had decided to increase the prices for us and it was only because of the reservation that we didnt go elsewhere. We got the owner to drop the price of the drinks to be the same as the other bars, which he was not overjoyed about. The meals were $3.50 instead of $3.00, not a lot but it was more than we had been promised. Some of the group made a point of only ordering food that was $3 or less, to prove the point. I lashed out the extra $0.50 for the Fish BBQ as recommended. It was a fair assortment of squid and fish when it arrived. Back home it could have cost as much as $20-30 for the same meal. Drinks were had and in all it was entirely acceptable.

Having had my fill of Mojitos, fish and beer, I decided prudence might the order of the evening. I was getting towards the end of my course of Cipro for my tummy and didnt want to push it. Also, as is customary for such amazing holiday situations, I was starting to miss Jenny and started to feel like an early night.

Paul and I made our way back to the hotel, the walk was much the same as this afternoon. A pause was required for footware and a lot of fending off enthusiastic Tuk-Tuk drivers. Most of the establishments on the road were still open and active. This was a resort town, tonight would be a big night for most of its occupants.

Back at the hotel, I think Paul swapped out some gear before heading back to the beach. I made use of the shower and had the early night I had promised myself.

Today had been a good day, I really needed a good break in a place like this.

101108 – Homestay

101108 – Homestay

Get up, post-office.
Send suit home – expensive

back to hotel, breakfast not arrive

Gear on bus

Ride
Sleep
Ride
Buy beer, snacks, drinks

Arrive, see both houses

Drive and then walk to Eco-tourism place

Look at Solar kit, cant fix the inverter

Dinner and drinks, drinking games

Bus back to homestay

Short-tempers, growl at Mat

others stay to drink
Kate, Sat, Me chat at sleeper.

091108 – Saigon to Phnom Pen

091108 – Saigon to Phnom Pen

Get up, growl at Adam

visit little shop for deodorant

Cyclos and walk to bus station

Catch bus

Bus ride

Border crossing, wait, line, back on bus

lunch at restaurant

bus ride

ferry

bus ride

hotel

wander around

Roast Dinner and internet

Meet group

dinner at non-profit restaurant

wander back to hotel

chill with Paul

Monster rain

081108 - Saigon

081108 - Saigon

Cu Chi tunnels
Propoganda Video
Walking tour through jungle
Nasty traps
AK-47 and M30 range
Climb through tunnels
Kitchen
Snack on cooked root with peanuts and salt, tea
Buy grenade lighter

Bus trip back

Chill out in hotel room for rest of the day

Dinner at Mexican restaurant

chill out at hotel, repack

Adam is a jerk

071108 – Saigon

071108 – Saigon

Arrival, bus to hotel

dump bags

orientation walk
Pho2000, Market, Opera house, Post-Office, Notre-Dame, Park, Reunification Palace

Coffee shop at Window

Wander past Diamond Plaza to check out movie times,

Checked out market

Back to hotel and chilled all day

Drop laundry off

Dinner at outdoor market

Get money out
Back to hotel room

061108 – Nha Trang

061108 – Nha Trang

Sleep-in

Breakfast with Paul

Wander down beach in pouring rain

Back to hotel

Internet all day – Banking, Skype, Snazzy, phone

Dinner with crew at Italian place – Discount

Hotel till train station – 2 hour delay

Sleeper carriage with Charlotte, Sat and Paul

051108 – Nha Trang

051108 – Nha Trang

Sleep all day – violently ill

Get Well card

Pot-noodle

Sleep

Victoria – Trip to hospital

041108 – Hoi An

041108 – Hoi An

Pack, checkout

internet, check banking

Train station, wait, repack, get-on, arguments over seats get-off, wait

Train trip
meal
play game
start the violent illness
still ill
ill some more

Arrive at Nha Trang
Hotel and sleep

031108 – Hoi An

031108 – Hoi An

Bus trip to My Son
Scorching heat, wander around ruins in the forrest

back to Nha Trang

Lunch

Suit fitting

Hotel

Go to police with Dat

Beg, plead, haggle till cops receive report

Back to hotel

Dinner across street, ages for meals to arrive

hunt for cake, give up

Inspect suits from reception

pack and sleep

021108 – Hoi An

021108 – Hoi An

Sleep-in, work-out

Meet with others and go for Breakfast

Walk through markets

Suit-fitting

Book shopping

Lunch at cafe and book My Son for tomorrow

Back to hotel, Paul has work-out

Beach with Paul, Matt and Vickie

Jog with Paul

Beach, drinks, dinner

Others join

head back early, no internet, write report

Journal, recheck finances, sleep.

011108 – Hue to Hoi An

011108 – Hue to Hoi An

Rise, Pack, quick breakfast and internet

Arrange for room-swap with Paul and Matt.

Bus and depart

Hue countryside

Stop at resort for South China Sea – run into Greg and Alice

Cloudy Pass Mountain photos

Stop at Marble mountain, some climb it, others coffee

Drive to Hoi An

Hotel

Find phone missing

Go out to bus and look

Lunch at Cafe

Orientation tour

Search hotel again

Phone Optus for details and block

ride to police station – Dat insisting that I be liberal in my story

second station – sent home

Hang by pool

Drinks

Internet

Sleep

311008 – Hue

311008 – Hue

wake briefly to say hi to Andy and others as they head for bike-ride at 0800hr, everyone had a big night

Sleep in till 1100hr

get up and do rehab workout

meet up with Paul and Matt

email and finish workout

head out to lunch near olympic stadium = AWESOME LUNCH

wander down to river

boat ride for an hour, girl desperate to sell stuff

get dropped off and cross bridge to find temples

tea and coffee at little restaurant

find first temple

walk along river but cant find the side-road to next temple

walk the rest of the river-road, saying hello to local kids and shop-owners

get directions back to the bridge, talking to locals, photo of lady with cigar, buy bread snacks

cross over and walk through markets

toilet stop at KFC

walk across bridge and take night-time photos

walk back to hotel

chill till dinnertime

meet downstairs, Dat wants money for not going on bike-tour

dinner, run into Greg and Alice

walk back to hotel with Greg and Alice

chill in hotel room, emails, read Transmetropolitan, write journal

301008 – Hue

301008 – Hue

Train arrival

Bus to hotel

Early check-in

AirCon and chill
Workout and showers

Run into Greg and Alice

Taxis to lunch
Awesome lunch restaurant
Beer-opening
Street-kid art
Pancakes – crispy

Walk to Forbidden City

Moat
Gate house

Coy pond

Throne/audience room

courtyard, icecream

ADVENTURING
Walking past construction zone,
Emperors reading room,
Covered walk-ways,
Raised stages and pagodas
Dragon and Phoenix puppets and medical student selling toothpicks
Tennis Court
Rear expanse of moat and guys fishing
Rear wall and Gatehouse

Walking back and around
Almost heading to exit
Finding the demolished temple complex and walking through
Palace of Queens mother
Complex for Temples for Royals, taking shoes off,

Back to entrance, climb to top of gate-house

Head to Eastern side
Temple with guard trying to get money from me
Have a look through the back of compound and see plant nursery
College of fine-arts

Leave and walk back
Across small bridge, ask for directions, across big bridge
long walk,
get to hotel

chill out in room, get ready for dinner

dinner at DMZ cafe
find out about Bega accommodation via free wifi

leave with Vickie so she can call to change flights
two internet cafes later...
walk back to hotel, vickie uses skype..

chill and journal write.

291008 - Hanoi

291008 - Hanoi

Breakfast at internet place, hopeless food and worse bandwidth

Sort out local payment, try 3 atms.

Get gear, we head to post-office. I get taxi with one lot, then walk, meet others there.

Post gear home

wander back to city

internet and coffee at G.Jeans

chat to Aussies from Brissie on their way to teach english in China

head back towards hotel, grab KFC on the way,

chill at hotel, charge gear in Vickies room. TV.

Bus to train-station,

Board train and set up gear

Platoon movie viewing

Read stuff off of laptop

sleep

291008 - Hanoi

291008 - Hanoi

Breakfast at internet place, hopeless food and worse bandwidth

Sort out local payment, try 3 atms.

Get gear, we head to post-office. I get taxi with one lot, then walk, meet others there.

Post gear home

wander back to city

internet and coffee at G.Jeans

chat to Aussies from Brissie on their way to teach english in China

head back towards hotel, grab KFC on the way,

chill at hotel, charge gear in Vickies room. TV.

Bus to train-station,

Board train and set up gear

Platoon movie viewing

Read stuff off of laptop

sleep

281008 – Catba Island to Hanoi

281008 – Catba Island to Hanoi

Get up and meet in reception

bus out to boat

take boat out amongst islands, arrive at pontoon-house

get in Kyaks, Im paired with Miff.

Paddle out and about, trying to remember technique and giving Miff instructions.

Scenery, go under rocks to enclosed lagoon, village of pontoon-houses and fishermen

arrive at little island and swim from the beach

arrive back at the pontoon house for lunch
lunch of fish, squid, chips, vegetables

boat takes us to monkey island

Swim for a little bit, much colder..
chill out on deck-chair

monkeys arrive, noisy and threatening to group

boat picks us up and we return to Catba Island

little break at hotel
most go to cafe for food and drinks

bus back to boat, fast-hydrofoil back to mainland

bus back to hanoi

walk to puppet-theatre

show.. little unimpressed..

wander off to find Half-Man ½ noodle bar
no food there, group splits.
Street-meat!!! chicken noodle soup

drinks at Half-man, buy shirt

run into others at cheap beer corner, couple of drinks,

back to hotel, internet next door, buy water, chill in room.

271008 – Hanoi to Halong Bay

271008 – Hanoi to Halong Bay

Sleep in and miss chance for breakfast,
no internet for checking bank

Get on bus

1.5hr trip, scener
Crafts centre, misserable food and coffee. Beef fried noodles
Back on bus
1.5hrs more

arrive at jetty, buy silly hats. Adam and others still smoking

onto boat, Vickie nearly gets left behind,

drinks and then lunch. Seafood lunch of AWESOME

scenery, girls sunning on upper deck

stop out in the islands, jump in from upper deck and swim
first swim of 6 months.
Swim to duck-island and climb on top.
Swim back, doing ok.

Head for Catba Island, arrive and bus to hotel
pretty scenery

check-in, dump gear and go to warf to watch sunset, some head on to beach

back to hotel, chill, shower

head down for dinner, drinks. Happy-hour cocktails, mojito, 2 mai tai, banana dacqueri
cheese-burger, stop drinks

chat to Paul

head back, get laptop and find internet.

Back to hotel, Andy thinks Im asleep in room

others head out for drinks, I head to bed.

261008 – Hanoi

261008 – Hanoi

Full Rehab workout

Goodbye to Mike and June

Wander with Andy B

Nasty street breakfast

Down to lake for coffee, pastry and browsing

KFC breakfast top-up

Find Post-office

Dude trying to sell post-cards

TukTuks to DVD shop, get X-Files for Neil

Back to hotel, chill out for the arvo
Repack,
Watch DVDs with Adam, Andy and Kate

Blackout

Group meeting, new people – Matthew and Paul

Group Dinner

ATM eats my card

Street Market

Street Beers

Back to hotel, internet attempts

Repack and sleep

251008 – Hanoi

251008 – Hanoi

Early arrival, minibusses to hotel

3-room check-in

Go wandering to Lake
Run into Mike & June
Watch ladies with swords doing Kung Fu
Walk around lake
Temple on the island
People exercising
back to hotel

Crazy crazy traffic

Chill out in the guys room

Basic orientation walk

Brunch at restaurant

DVD shopping with guys.. massive selection & justifying purchases

Motorcycle tour of hanoi
Hanoi Hilton
French quarter
B-52 wreck
John McCain statue at the lakes

Bikes back to DVD shop & purchases

Walk back to hotel

Showers

Head out to the street pub corner

lots of $0.30 beers

Dinner at Little Hanoi

Bike back to hotel with Vickie, others go clubbing. Chat and watch TV.
Andy´s story about motor bike ride with lady trying to pickpocket Sophie

Bed

241008 – Sapa to Hanoi

241008 – Sapa to Hanoi

Sleep-in

Local Breakfast

Group Breakfast

Sort drinks bill, pack and leave

Wait for mini-bus at bottom of hill, go for drinks

Drive back

Chill in hotel, shoe-cleaning, repack, lunch at Italian restaurant, go hunting for new day-pack, cake

Shower, internet, chill

Buy pack and Cake with Sophie

regroup down-stairs and wait for bus

Trip to train-station

Dinner with Vickie,

Board train

Chat with Mike and June, Write journal

Bed

231008 – Sapa trek

231008 – Sapa trek

Rise and arrange day-pack

Healthy breakfast with Andy, most of group

Gear-up an store main-packs

Mini-bus to trail start, local women swarming, narrow road with dude washing his car in the stream

Head off on trek, local women following us

Down, across bridge,

Tea with local home – drunk husband, local women waiting in distance

Start of the slippery trail, local women helping, using walking pole

Brief stops at huts

Death-like descents, woman not helping

Lunch – cucumber, tomatoe, egg sandwhiches

Continue on via the main-road

Next trail descent

Catch motorcycle from village with Sat and Sophie

Scooter ride to the home-stay

Chill for afternoon, till the others arrive

Sort beds,

drinks, entre and mains

Karaoke, random singing, complaints from neighbours

Girls get Ham drunk

Early night for me

221008 – Sapa

221008 – Sapa

Sleep-in, Western Breakfast in restaurant

Fog, clearing and thickening throughout the valley

Coffee and Cake with Mike and June,

Lunch with most of group in nearby restaurant

Chill out in Adam and Andys room, drinks

Chat with neil and sort emails

Group dinner in restaurant

Others go out for pool and drinks

Sort out emails and internet

Sleep

211008 – Kunming to Vietnam

211008 – Kunming to Vietnam

Rise late

Buffet Breakfast

Email

Taxis to the bus terminal – lost, finally get there

Wait in hall

board, get old guys out of seats

Bus ride

Wait for crashed truck

Bus ride

swap tunes with Andy

Lunch

Bus ride from hell, Matthew sets up sleeper spot on the floor

Nasty toilet stop

Arrive at bus terminal

Immigration out of China

Walk across the bridge

Immigration into Viet Nam

Bus ride to Sapa

Dinner

Shower and bed

201008 - Kunming

201008 - Kunming

Arrive early on train,

Taxis to hotel

Buffet Breakfast

Chill in room with Andy

head out for lunch, finally find noodle shop, eat same as local (spicy) and some pork buns

Arrive back, emails and phone for changing airfares – SUCCESS

rest of group go to pool and gym

Chill with Adam and Andy – revise diving and talk of doing the course

go shopping for snacks with the girls, head back with Vickie

get back, chill

final dinner, roof-top restaurant, bowling :p

Drinks at club, I slow down early

Second club – flop

Charlotte being a pain

back to hotel, go out looking for water

bed

191008 – Kaili/Guiyang to Kunming

191008 – Kaili/Guiyang to Kunming

Exercises

Breakfast

Gear-up

Walk down to bus

Back to hotel

Internet, good-news, shower, re-pack

Lunch, ordered in Madarin

Gear-up

Taxi to bus station

Insane bus-driver

Walk to station – avoid porters

Leave gear in VIP section

Head out for local KFC lookalike, Dico

Wait and smiling at baby

Board train and play cards into the night.

181008 – Rice Terraces – Kaili

181008 – Rice Terraces – Kaili

Rise, breakfast – rice porridge and boiled-eggs

Gear-up

Leave on trek

Walk for ~3 hours,
Flat bit, lunch at village in shop-owners house.
Uphill for most, rest at summit. Guy tilling his terrace with Ox and plough.

Walk through village

Traditional welcome

Nap – sharing with Mathew

Shower

Learn how to play Mahjong

Dinner and rice-wine

More Mahjong

Traditional dancing

Bed

171008 – Rice Terraces - Kaili

171008 – Rice Terraces - Kaili

Rise, breakfast on the restaurant street (very small meal)

Wander with Andy-Baileys, Market-street to suburbia, back via main-street

Pack and gear-up

Store main-packs

Walk to lunch

Lunch of fresh-made noodles – delish! Bubble-tea next door

Local bus to private bus

Past Buffalo sale

Arrive near school

Photos of kids, A-Baileys plays basket ball with them

Trek through rice-terraces
along stream
very serene and peaceful
stop for a couple of breaks

Arrive late-afternoon

Get gender-separate rooms

Chill till dinner – beers and drinks

Large dinner and rice-wine

Cards

Learn how to play Chinese Chess from Mathew – I win

Chess with Fox – I win

Watch end of Poker game

Exercises – Bed

161008 – Leave Hong Kong

161008 – Leave Hong Kong

Rise late, send emails

Pack and gear-up

Meet and leave hotel

Bus to airport

Brief wait – Toilets and internet while Mathew gets tickets

Last minute check-in, no time for breakfast

Andy-Baileys and I get KFC for us plus Adam while Mike is bag-searched

Skarf food down and go through security

I get tripple-checked at metal detector

Wait for bus at gate – last email

Long wait on plane, depressing movie and lunch is served

Eventually depart

Arrive and collect gear

Bus to hotel

Meet Fox – Local Guide

Chill in hotel

Dinner on nearby dining-street

Chill for evening – sorting music players and internet

Full set of Rehab exercises, Bed

121008 – Lonji Trek

121008 – Lonji Trek

Get up

Rehab

Breakfast

Set out

Treking and scenery

Rests along the way

Treking

Lunch in new village

Chill out

Snooze

Walk up to top of hill – Seven Stars and Moon

Dinner

Talk to mum and dad

Bed

111008 – Guilin to Lonji

111008 – Guilin to Lonji

Breakfast

Packing and Bus ride

Check baggage

On bus

Trek for 40min

Lonji Terraces

Chill for afternoon

Guys playing sports

Dinner

Cards

Sleep – Early night

101008 – Outside Hostel

101008 – Outside Hostel

Rise after rotten night sleep

Bike ride

Countryside

School and little boy

Drinks and chill

Others climb Moon Hill

Lunch

Ride back

Chill for afternoon

Internet and hang with Sweden

Early night

091008 – West Street to Outside Hostel

091008 – West Street to Outside Hostel

Sleep-in

Pack bags and checkout

Wander out for breakfast and internet

Walk around

Go back for extra jackets

Repack and head to post-office

Lunch with Dom

Mini-bus to outside hostel

Cooking Class

Dinner with Sweden

Early night – rotten sleep

081008 – Yang Shou - West Street

081008 – Yang Shou - West Street

Late sleep-in

Late breakfast and free internet

Shopping

River Cruise

Dinner with group

Adam helps me negotiate for jacket and back-pack

Massage

Sleep

071008 - Train to Yang Shou - West Street

071008 - Train to Yang Shou - West Street

Train arrival

Bus to Yang Shou

Check-in

Orientation walk

Dinner

Sleep

061008 – Shanghi to Train

061008 – Shanghi to Train

Free breakfast

Pack and checkout

Train to Yang Shou

051008 - Shanghai

051008 - Shanghai

Sleep-in

Lunch

Internet

Walk back

Wander around

041008 – Shanghai

041008 – Shanghai

Sleep-in on train

Arrival and taxi to hotel

Check-in and showers

Lunch

Orientation walk

Browsing shops

Wander back

Drinks

Taxi to night-district

Drinks with Swedes

Wander

Meet up with others

Zapatas for dancing

Taxi back

Sleep