210908 – Russia, Train Trip to Ulaan Ude

210908 – Russia, Train Trip to Ulaan Ude

The train arrived a suitable time before dawn. This was still a source of grumbling within the group, tiredness made everybody cranky, along with having to wait for our local guide to finish his cigarette before looking for our transport. Unfortunately, Andre wasnt winning any favours. Once vehicles had been sought out and acquired, the little convoy made its way out to the family home-stay. On arrival, a breakfast of breads and some odd kind of porrige cheered the group up immensly.

The next few hours were occupied by sleeping and showers, Liam and I shared a room again. The beds must have been an artifact of Soviet interigation. Featuring a matress and frame made of some kind of chain-link spring, only our exhaustion was all that made it tolerable. You litterally FELL into the bed until the tension in the ancient coiled wired was sufficient to halt the effects of gravity..

Later in the day, the group recondenced and we were lead down into the city. The walk was longer than we were used to, it took us past the usual assortment of shops and under an impressive highway overpass. Finishing in the city-square, a fun-run had been scheduled for the weekend. It was under the giant and impressive disembodied statue of Lenins head that we watched the runners pass over the finish line. It was here that I first got a feel for Russian community spirit, I had not come across it until this stage of the trip.

Maybe it was the pride of these people, of the great bronze testiment to their Socialist Fore-father, that brought them together.. or maybe wed just spent too much time in lousy Russian cities.

Leaving Lenin, the fun-runners and the town-square behind, we walked down the hill and through the pedestrian mall to have lunch at a russian-food chain restaurant. The buffet style offered a wide range of choices, though none of them were particularly familiar. Going on chance, and the nods of the locals, I seemed to get a reasonable assortment. The price wasnt too bad, but there was no Borsh and it still wasnt as cheap as I needed it to be. I sat and chatted with Greg and Alice until the group was ready to go.

After lunch had finished, it was unanimously agreed upon to go to the Budhist monastery located about an hour away. Anne and Andre negotiated for us to get a private van rather than using the public bus. This worked out a great deal cheaper for the group, though Andre seemed a little put-out at having to do the negotiations. The van was fairly old, though the ride was pleasant enough.

I was very impressed with the Monastery. It was quite a large complex and construction was continuing. We started by walking the perimeter, in a clock-wise direction, stopping at the prayer wheels and taking photos. This was the first monastery for the trip, so it was all new and fresh for the group. Monks passed us at an impressive rate, spinning the wheels as they went.

I was amazed at how much money was strewn about the ground. This was mimiced inside the buildings and temples. Bottles of vodka, other alcohol, food-types and numerous vices were represented. Exmplifying that The key to happiness is the absence of desire..

The trees outside one of the perimeter walls were covered with hundreds of prayer flags, within the complex the architecture was a little eclectic. Numerous buildings were characteristic of the standard homes for this part of the world, others were more typical of eastern temples. In the centre of the complex there was a seperate building featuring great glass windows, protecting the tree that features in budhist monasteries. There would have been at least a dozen temple buildings, all free standing from each other.

Entering many of the temples, we followed the instructions by walking clock-wise about the room three times. I was impressed with what was on display and wish that I had a better understanding of this faith. I purchased a couple of sets of pretty beads and a small booklet, better to support the monks directly rather than just the gift-shop people at the enterance.

Half-way through the walking tour, we came across a panel of monks surrounded by a crowd. Chanting and occasionaly ringing a bell, 4 of them seemed to have a lot to say while their 5th member threw handfuls of grain into a fire at timed intervals.

Satisfied with the walk and successfully avoiding buying anything from the shops, we filled the van and drove back. Stopping only to drop-off an extra fare that the driver had found, we made it back to the city in good time.

Back in the city, a handful of us sought out internet while the others made a direct attack on the Irish pub that they had spotted. It wasnt long before we were all there, flirting with the waitressess and lamenting the lack of Guiness. Though most of us were ready to settle in there for the night, we ended out walking back up the hill to the prearranged meeting point. The two older asian ladies on the tour were waiting for us there and quickly departed, a handful of us went into the restaurant. We had been told that the food was good and reasonably priced. Regardless, this was our last dinner in Russia! Ordering our respective favourites, the food was exceptional. Cake and more than a few drinks were liberated before we collected our jackets from the cloak room and went looking for adventure.

It was now that the inner pragmatist kicked in. Instead of returning to the Irish Pub, we entered the super-market. Noodles and other supplies were bought, in our defence there was also a liberal amount of Vodka in each basket. We had been warned about the long border crossing into Mongolia, now we would be prepared.

Congregating on the curb in front of the supermarket, the smokers smoked, one person polished off a couple of beers and we all watched the unfolding car accident at the intersection. By the time the entire group had finished shopping, the drivers had worked through the script of argument, pointing at fenders, more argueing and driving off in a huff. We ambushed a couple of taxis and did our best to negotiate the side-streets back to the home-stay.

It still was reasonably early. Despite the early start in the morning, we all chilled out in the rear accommodation. The group had been split between two buildings, by the sounds of it the guys in the front house had gotten the raw end of this deal. Vodka and beers came out, promptly spilled by some of the more ¨liberated¨ members of the group. Jokes were told and those with the necessary skill were recruited to work the knots out of the backs of those in suffering. Music appeared from at least one laptop and it was progressing into quite the little saure.

Just as it was starting to wind up, our Russian hostess stormed up the stairs and announced that ¨If you want to make noise, find another house!¨. This had been without warning and I´m still not sure if she just meant to go into the front building.. Unfortunately a couple of the boys, who were well smashed at this point, took exception to the comment. I found out over the next few days that they had been somewhat ~creative~ in their strategic placement of some left-over sliced cheese.. I think that was going a little too far.

Everyone wandered off to bed, it was pretty much going to be a certainty that the majority of the group would either have a hang-over or still be drunk when they got up in 5 hours.