260808-280808 Jordan

260808 – Jordan, Aqaba to Wadi Rum

Rising the next morning and avoiding breakfast, we had another group meeting before getting on the bus. Sarah-british had been to the hospital across the road with Linda, an elderly doctor there had agreed that it was fire-coral and provided suitable prescriptions.

Lingering next to the hotel, I sent and received some last emails through the free WiFi before buy some extra water and boarding the bus for a quick drive through Aqaba. So far it is the nicest and most modern city I have seen in the Middle East, everyone agreed that it was worth staying there to recover.

Driving into the desert, Faisel told us about the history and make-up of Jordan. He ellaborated on local groups and customs, particular those relating to dating and marriage. Having been recently knocked back on a marriage proposal because he wasn't wealthy enough, I was a little worried that this might be a trend for the rest of the trip..

One thing that is particularly striking about Jordan is the national loyalty to their King. His photo is EVERYWHERE, it is required to be in every place of business and there is a genuine love for him by all of his citizens. Faisel told us the stories outlining his progression to the throne (which wasn't entirely welcomed by the new monarch), including how he used to sneak out of the palace to be amongst his people as a commoner. Tourist, foreigner, businessman, one time that he had been acting as a taxi-driver, he started asking a Bedouin if he thought the king was a bad man by making accusations. The Bedouins are PROFOUNDLY loyal, on hearing his beloved king being slandered, he attacked. Pulling out hair and punching, the angry Bedouin was hauled from the car by the Royal Personal Guard who were never far behind.

It is really something, when a Monarch is almost killed out of loyalty because he bad-mouthed himself :p

Passing through the dessert, and a suitable number of check-points, we arrived at the gates to Wadi Rum and the Seven Pillars of Wisdom. Historically important due to its ties with Lawrence of Arabia, we stopped for photos and a toilet break. Having already transferred our gear, we mounted 4WDs and took off for the overnight stay in the dessert.

The vehicle I took with 3 others was driven by Sheik Zaaied. He was the leader of his broader family, having been educated throughout Jordan for many years, operating a tour company through Wadi Rum, and being friends with the King. We stopped for “Strong-Water” (frozen bottles) and snacks before leaving the sealed roads and entering the sand.

We stopped for Bedouin tea in a tent next to Lawrence Spring. Bedouin tea is a mix of Wild Sage, Mint, Cinnamon and other herbs that is served very sweet. It is absolutely breath-taking, but something I would never be able to get back into Australia. Almost haunting in flavour and extremely refreshing, it will be one of my favourite memories of Jordan and the Middle East as a whole.
While at this little Bedouin camp, there were some pieces of silver Jewellery for sale. The price was a little high and I was concerned about the quality, but I regret not buying a silver bracelet that caught my eye for Jenny. I spent most of the rest of the trip before finding one like it.

Moving on, we drove past Lawrence's House, an outpost that had been badly damaged in the last major earthquake. We didn't go inside, but the view of the surrounding region was astounding.

Next was a canyon-cave that had ancient carvings throughout it. We walked the 20-30 metres into the mountain, photographing inscriptions and etchings of camels, men, women giving birth. A short drive later we were at a great sand-dune, where the others climbed to the top while Debbie and I recorded their break-neck speed decent from the base.

Having finished the tour, we finished at the Sheik's camp at one of the marked “Sunset” locations and “Ocean of Ten Thousand Stars”. After more Bedouin tea and a short climb, we watched a sunset that was spectacular indeed. After the deep red and orange of the sky left us yearning for more, we wandered back in the gently progressing dark towards dinner.

Bedouin “Sand Cooking” reminds me of a mixture of a technique I saw in an SAS survival book and “Cooking with Wool” that my mum occasional performs. A multi-level circular platform is buried in the sand under a large round disc in the ground. On each level of the device is a different food type, for ours it was Chicken on top and Onions underneath. Below the whole device is a mound of hot coals. Over the course of 2-4 hours, the heat from the coals cooks the food, before the Bedouin chef finally shovels and then sweeps the sand from the top of the round cover and raises this little time-capsule of delicious cuisine from its brief grave. The meat is exceptionally tender, the onions below benefiting from the exudate from it's upstairs neighbour.

Dinner done and cleared away, Sheik Zaeid collected the bones and placed them at a strategic position outside of the camp. Over the next hour, we shone lights and whistled as the foxes came down heralded with glowing eyes. The Sheik would occasionally say “Fox” loudly, which was responded to with a “yes?” by Scottish and a several pairs of glowing beacons out in the dark.

The rest of the night was filled with drinks from what appeared to be an alcohol-free bottle of Egyptian Rum accompanied by Bedouin singing from our Friend the Sheik and classical opera by Sarah. Late into the night, the gas lights were put out and we slept on matresses under the Ocean of Ten Thousand Stars. The little droplets of light slowly joined their friends into riverlets, then streams, ponds, rivers and finally the grand ocean as our light grew accustomed to the dark. Beneath the spectacular majesty of the universe, we drifted to sleep under a rolling ocean of gentle light that could only be described by poets.

Punctuating this astounding display were the regular prods of “Steve, you're snoring”


270809 – Jordan, Wadi Rum to Petra

Rising the next morning to complaints of my own nocturnal musical performance, we had a breakfast of tea, flat-bread with oil, herbs and jam. We broke away from the camp and 4 of us rode in the open roll-cage of a ute, back to civilisation and the air-conditioned bus.

Travelling through the morning light, the dessert was a beautiful series of light and dark as we traversed the shadows beneath the mountains that had been painted by nature with iron oxides and sulphides. Passing camels and goats, along with an assortment of camps, we made our way back into town, our vehicle running out of petrol (or possible vital essence, considering its condition) only 50 metres from the bus.

Goodbye to the Sheik and back on the road, we started the long journey to Petra. We stopped on the way to photograph the wild valley that remains as un-touched nature in the heart of Jordan. Filled with Jackals, bears, wolves and wild-dogs, we viewed the valley from a nearby mountain top. Faisel said he didn't have the certifications required to take us in there and that it can easily take a year to gain permission from the government with an official guide.

After several hours of driving, we arrived in Petra. Photo's from a suitable look-out preceded the decent into the town down street that would rival Assisi for gradient. Stopping in the city proper, still halfway up the hill, we stocked up on water and dozens of falafels for lunch at the discounted prices. Making the final decent, the prices had doubled before we even got to our hotel.

The Silk Road Hotel is astoundingly well appointed. The rooms are large and comfortable with hot AND cold water along with barely functional air-conditioning. We rested for several hours with showers and naps, Sarah-British once again displaying her war-wounds, before regrouping to visit Petra.

After congregating and being instructed, Faisel guided us to the entrance to the archaeological site. Sourcing our tickets and maps, we progressed to the gate and made our way into antiquity.

The initial walk is surrounded by carved tombs, into the hillside and even within free-standing boulders. There are honestly too many to count and many of them are particularly small. After passing over the small bridge spanning the main path of Petra's ancient water source, we entered the 1.2km long canyon that leads down into the main sights. Either side of the canyon features the remains of a small hand-carved aqueduct, about 10-16cm in diameter. These two small channels reached the entire way into the city and provided water to it's residents in a time at the birth of history. The Canyon itself is 3-6 metres is width, with multiple tiers almost out of sight. These ledges and this narrow canyon offered a security to the citizens, successfully repelling every attempted attack. At places along the canyon there are various features carved into the rock, including two camel trains reminding us of the history of the region, niches for idols, at least one significant alter and a nearby small cave for animal and human sacrifices.

As we approached the end of this long hallway, Faisel instructed us to walk along the right hand wall. Telling us to stop abruptly, he had us face forward and then take a step to the left. This little dance routine summoned the great Treasury building into sight, bursting from the walls of the canyon in a way reminiscent of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

Passing from the final confines of the canyon, we approached the Treasury in awe of its splendour. This ancient tomb facade is ABSOLUTELY breath-taking, by far the most impressing monument of our extensive travels. It is a sight that the mind can comprehend, yet utterly awe-inspiring. Over 40 metres high and carved directly into the rock, it had previously been buried beneath 6 metres of silt. The bottom level barely visible through the wire grill beneath our feet. Of all of the wonders of the world, on first viewing it is certainly the most magnificent, though the recent century of erosion has degraded it badly.

Photos aside, we progressed on through the necropolis, stopping at a variety of tombs, into acropolis and city. Avoiding merchants and multitudes of Bedouins who were either trying to sell anything that wasn't nailed down, hearding “taxi's” (Camels, donkeys and horses), or beating the day-lights out of each other, we scaled a hill to an ancient Christian Church that was being restored. Petra had once been the capital of this entire region of Asia Minor. An earthquake that is well known throughout antiquity destroyed almost all of the city and damaged the water management system in a way that was never repaired. A vital room in a side chapel within this church had been saved beneath the devastation, filled with scrolls it offers scholars a reliable window into a past that has been otherwise lost and forgotten.

From this vantage point over what remained of the great city, Faisel ended the day. From 3pm was free time, with some people returning to the hotel, exploring sights of the city. A small group of us decided to brave the 800 stairs to make the ascent to the Monastery.

This climb was particularly hard, rivalling Mount Siani in intensity. The stairs were VERY VERY badly worn from centuries of rain, foot-falls and neglect. This climb should not be attempted without good footware and DEFINITELY not after dark. At the end of the climb is a Facade carved into the rock that almost rivals the Treasury. The Monastery is another tomb that also served as a chapel and pilgrimage location. Coming over the hill would be impressive, if you had not had to pass by the Treasure earlier. Continuing to climb past the Monastery is a panorama that offers the viewer sights of Jordan and Israel. John made this final ascent, but the entire rest of the group could not find the energy. Even promises that it was worth the climb for the view alone could not make us turn back to make the additional 200-300 metre scale.

As the sun was setting behind us, and being refreshed from the drinks acquired from the small cafe opposite the Monastery, we spent another hour returning to the valley. Fraser and I were overtaken by the group as we negotiated for a horse and cart to return us to the entrance. Deciding that 30 Dinar was daylight robbery, we offered 10D (about $16AUS) which was refused by the group of drivers. One gentleman over to one side motioned us towards him, amidst yells and screams of protest by his tight-fisted competitors. We mounted the cart and were spirited away, heralded by howls of rage.

Shortly overtaking our group, we were saluted on all sides by dirty looks as we flew past the pedestrian tourists the whole way to the entrance. Fox and I literally had to restrain ourselves from laughing out-loud at some of the filthy glares that we got! Having gotten back to the hotel feeling almost refreshed, we each took our time with showers before meeting our weary companions for the dinner party.

The group dinner was a buffet at a nearby restaurant. Beer was expensive but of high alcohol content, the food consisted of staples we were sadly accustomed to. The Jordanian food was taking its toll.

A cake and singing was gifted by the restaurant staff for Linda's birthday, though she refused to tell us her age (I've got reliable authority that she is a little older than me). Dinner and desert done, Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade was played, with everyone cheering the whole way through. None of us remember it being so slap-stick, it seemed so serious when we first watched it years ago.

The evening complete, we meandered back to the hotel with full tummies and growing sweat. The heat and humidity is astounding throughout the Middle East. Back in reception, I fled to the toilet, fearing a return of the “Nasty-Butt”. On reappearing, I was informed that my room-mate had left seeking more alcohol... never a good sign.

Retreating to the room and reinforcing myself with a long shower, I prepared for bed. Several aspirin and some massage to ease the ache in my legs was all that delayed the decent into bliss.


280808 – Petra

Rising late in the morning, I was only just in time to catch breakfast. Fraser Scottish had been carried home by the bar staff at the restaurant where everyone had been the night before. Stumbling into the room at about 3AM, he had slept in the bath and was in an appropriate state on his bed by dawn. I couldn't see him going anywhere for most of the day.

Breakfast had the option of squishy cornflakes with warm milk and the usual break-stuffs. I took off to the ancient city with the two american guys sometime before lunch.

Deciding to be a little more adventurous, we diverted from the main path when we got to the bridge at the entrance to the canyon. Walking to the right, we entered the long series of canyons and tunnels that made up part of the ancient water system. The next two hours consisted of clambering around and down steep faces and boulders, me being careful of my knee and the other two careful of their flip-flops. It seems that their sneakers had disintergrated during the Monastery ascent yesterday.

Finally reaching the junction at the end of the first canyon, we heeded Faisels advice from the briefing and turned left.
“Turning right will get you lost” even though the map made it look like a fairly simple path.

From here on, the next kilometre or so was much easier going than the first. We came across openings that had idol niches carved in and could see ledges far above that might once have provided a vantage point for defenders.

Finally we made it out into the sunlight at the end, into the vicinity of a ruined dam. Tumbled from an ancient earthquake, the destruction of this and it's sibling waterways had ended the city. We braved the hot sands and made our way back to the main thoroughfare, planning for drinks and to maybe see the museum.

A long hot walk later, the three of us met up with Sarah-british and our guide, Linda, on the approach to the museum. We all agreed to find drinks and backtracked to the series of eateries. Cold beverages and toilet stops later, Sarah and John scaled the stairs and walkways on the opposite side of the valley while the rest of us made plans. On their return, Sarah and
I conceded defeat and went back to the hotel, while the others started the climb to the “High-place of sacrifice”.

Once out of the main entrance, leaving Petra to it secluded antiquity, we ran across Scottish. Looking sheepish, he advised us on lunch and made his way to see some more of Petra. Going our separate ways, I went to see how much I could get ripped off for lunch..

By the time we all met up for the evening meeting, most of us had eaten, showered, slept, or performed multiples of the above. Sarah, the young americans and myself were late to the meeting, having found “Mystic Pizza” nearby. While munching away on the “interesting” interpretation of “Pizza”, Sarah-british and Scottish left with the two guides to watch Petra-by-Night. Described as “Silently walking down to the ancient city in candle-light, listening to music played by the Bedouins”, Fraser later said that it was full of loud, obnoxious tourists who were obsessed with camera-flashes. He said that once the crowd had left, obviously missing the point, he wandered out alone. Embracing the serenity as the candles flickered out one by one.

The rest of us spent the night drinking heaps of water and watching the kid's movie “The Goonies”. A couple of mad dashes to the toilet heralded the return of “Nasty-Butt”, which seemed to be pretty common in the group at large, so I'd been planning to go to bed early. A frantic banging on my door and one of the American guys bellowing “GOONIES!!!” changed the plan, Evie joining us in the boys room for the movie.

Fraser returned from Petra in a sober state and described his experiences. Having tested the water at the meeting to see if I would tolerate a drunk room-mate two days in a row, I'd calmly informed him that a repeat would result in me “Putting you in a sleeper hold and then gaffa-taping you to the flag-pole outside. Naked”. So, in all, it was a most pleasant night for everyone.