120908 – Russia, Moscow

Waking up as sunlight started to sneak through the edges of the windows, everyone seemed to try and stave off getting up until the last possible minute. Eventually, Anne walked the length of the carriage, telling all of the Intrepid Travellers that we would be at the station in half an hour.

Stripping the bedding and rolling the mattress, the carriage attendant collected the sheets. After the remaining stuffed articles had been lifted to the top bunk, we sat opposite each other. Glaring with sleep-deprived, bleary eyes.


The 30 minutes grew into 45 as we appeared to continue to slow, the attendant had started selling mugs with teabags for the occupants and everyone slowly progressed through the tiny toilet. Not particularly noticing the scenery as it flew by, the trees gave way to housing, industrial, residential and urban.

Finally pulling into the station and lugging our respective burdens, Anne guided us out of the main terminal entrance and down the stairs to the metro station below. Passing out the electronic tickets while we were slouched against the wall, we quickly passed through the barriers and began our descent. Once again featuring the deep escalators and disguised doors, these stations were almost identical to the Metro system in St Petersburg. With one exception.

The Metro stations in Moscow appear to have been considered as some kind of gift to the people. Decorated with great bronze statues, marble halls, carvings and elaborately decorated plaster roofs, the Metro seemed more like a series of opulent halls that you would expect to see somewhere like the Winter Palace. The carved reliefs and mosaics that adorned almost every station on the central lines were not simply a thing of the past. A sign of good faith from the government to the “workers paradise”. Passing by a station that was under construction the next day, great pallets of polished granite and marble were visible in the dim light.

Having spent the first of the five trips that the ticket was valid for, we ascended into the daylight and made the short walk to the accommodation. “Comrade Hostel” is located through a street-level tunnel, past a small courtyard with a children playground, through a non-descript door and at the top of a flight of stairs. If you haven't been shown how to get there, you most probably would not be able to find it. At least there was no elaborate push-button test to get past the door..

Arriving early we were able to leave our bags with Tatta, the very pretty russian girl who was managing the front desk. Everyone had the option to change, shower and have a hot-drink, but we would not be able to check in until the afternoon. After killing about an hour with emails and freshening up, Anne took us out and across the road to the pancake franchise with which we had all become accustomed.

Borsh and Pancakes consumed, Anne guided us on the brief tour of central Moscow. Walking up one of the main streets, we headed towards Red Square. Once in sight, the barricade blocking the historic square came into view. Guiding us through the exclusive shopping mall GUM, Anne pointed out her price-picked eatery for lunch. We would all make our way back there later..
Exiting the mall and trying a second, then a third entrance, it appeared that Red Square and Lenin's tomb were closed Fridays. Making the best of the the situation, we continued on to see the Changing of the Guard at the Eternal Flame. Located beneath the Kremlin wall, this is a monument to Russian soldiers.

We stopped to video and photograph the honour guard as it performed the ceremony. Three men approached, slow marching with legs extending out straight to knee height, heels clipping the ground as they passed and a hand swinging down and then back up to grasp their rifle in time with each step. The metallic click with each pace as they approached was dramatic and extremely impressive. The escorting officer walked along side, a step below them on the adjacent path.

Having mounted the steps to the pool with the burning sentinel at its heart, the three soldiers halted and turned. Standing fast for a predetermined length of time, the two at the front performed a type of “Open Orders March” in perfect synchrony. Turning to their respective sides, they resumed their slow, clicking march to the edge of the monument and turned again to face the guard they were replacing.

With carefully paced timing, the relieving soldier walked the depth of the pool. The guard who had just stood the last hour-watch took two paces forward, out of the little shelter, in perfect timing with his relief. Pausing dramatically just half a pace past each others shoulder, the two soldiers turned their heads about to face each other in the eye. As though to communicate something, the two men paused, before once again facing forwards. The fresh man continued forward, turning and side-stepping, then retreating into the little clear rain shelter. Rifle hitting the ground at attention, there he would remain, immobile, for the next hour.

The men that had just been relieved performed the reverse actions of the new soldiers, reaching the solitary soldier who had remained at watch over the flame. Standing fast in front of the monument, precision timing had the three men turn and leave the dais as one. At the bottom of the 3 or 4 steps, the officer joined them to make the walk back to the end of the long walk-way.

Liam and I had watched and recorded the ceremony with a great deal of awe. Suddenly realising we couldn't see any of the rest of the group, we took of at a rapid pace chasing what we thought was Anne in the distance. Several hundred metres later, Natalie caught up with us and directed us back to the overpass that we had just crossed under. The group was waiting at the top.

Here my student card served me well by purchasing discount tickets to the Kremlin and the Armoury. This little piece of plastic had paid for itself a dozen times over :D

The entrance to the Kremlin was through a security check (we had to leave bags in a cloakroom) with metal detector and then across a bridge. Entering through a series of doors that would once have allowed the segregation of vehicles for searching, we passed through the great red-brick wall and into the heart of Russian Government.

The Kremlin is a Walled off section of the city, a little island that sits at a greater height than the surrounding metropolis. In excess of 10 towers man the great wall and the interior houses a number of churches and cathedrals, the Armoury, the Arsenal and Parliament (which we could not enter). There was a great bell and the Czar Cannon facing across a great paved Parade ground.

Our first visit was the Armoury, which houses a museum of Russian national treasures, the Diamond trust (which we did not enter) and a gift shop in the most heavily fortified section we were able to access. Gas sealed blast-doors at either end of the otherwise exitless bunker guarded CDs and post-cards. The museum itself was extensive and exquisite, rivalling the Hermitage. Containing the worlds greatest collection of silver work and examples of Russian jewellery and art through each era of development, it is a must see for Moscow. Great collections of armour and arms, the thrown of Ivan the Terrible, carriages and clothing, the museum is impressively varied in contents yet carefully balances the quantity with quality. Allowing a wide enough selection of pieces to satisfy experts, yet succinct enough to stop a tourist from uttering “yet another vase”.

Leaving the welcome dry and warmth of the Armoury, we walked back up the hill through the icy driven drizzle to the churches of the Kremlin. Included in the price of admission, we visited at least 4 of these ancient buildings, reading the history and significance of each in turn. Whilst in one, a quartet of singers appeared and entranced the travellers with haunting verses. Reminiscent of Gregorian chanting, we were spellbound for the five minute demonstration, had the CD they were advertising been half the price I would have bought one. Unfortunately, the closer to the centre of power, the higher the prices..

After being thoroughly exhausted of churches and museums, and being mostly drenched through with the light but incessant freezing drizzle (despite the technological wonders of Gore-Tex), we left the Kremlin to head back to into the commercial section. Following the convoluted route back, we made it in good time. Stopping in the shopping centre on the way, I enjoyed a banquet sized lunch with Presh, Shanika and Denesh. Deciding that the weather had successfully vetoed any further exploring,

After finding that Red Square was no longer off-limits, the four of us went to take silly photos of the serious scene. Spelling out RED, I photographed the others. We went and stood in front of Saint Basil's Cathedral (reputedly, Ivan the Terrible had all of the workers executed after its completion such that its beauty would never be surpassed) and Lenin's tomb. Once again feeling cold and miserable, we made our way back to the hostel.

Having showered, changed, charged phones and prepared beds, the group as a whole returned to Red Square for group photos. I succeeded in buying a black furry hat with a Soviet hammer and sickle Star on it. I wore it the whole way to dinner, earning a great deal of looks and smirks by the locals. Feeling self-concious, I took off the badge and seemed to go a little more unnoticed.

Dinner was once again a type of buffet at an underground restaurant called Moo-Moo (spelt My-My). There was another Intrepid group there that would be joining us in Mongolia. Dinner was reasonably priced but unremarkable, the Borsh would have been excellent had it been a little warmer.

Having dried and recovered warmth during dinner, Anne took us on a “Metro Tour”. Consisting of the 7 or 8 most spectacular stations, we hopped on and off the trains to photograph the spectacular decorations and get confused by the conflicting signage.

The final stop of the night was at a discount supermarket, which also appeared to be open all night. Taking this opportunity, everyone stocked up on snacks, instant meals, noodles, chocolates and sweets for the upcoming Trans-Siberian rail adventure. Also using the opening for other "essentials", almost everyone in the group purchased a selection of beer and vodka, in order to avoid the inflated train prices.

There would be at least two chances every day to get off of the train and buy food from the Babushka's (Literally: Grandmother) and their little push-carts and bags. However, there would be some long stretches where the only option would be to use the free boiling water in the compartment or go to the dining car for grossly over-priced and frankly "gross" food. Any fresh or perishable provisions would have to be purchased here, as would tea or hot-chocolate for beverages.

Following Irene's instistance from home, I went halves with Greg for a block of ice-cream. Coming out of the deep-freeze a little squishy, wrapped as a block in foil, we ate it in the corridor as soon as it was paid for.

Russian ice-cream can only be described as "100% Lid Icecream". If you were to take a tub of high-quality ice-cream, peel off the lid and use a spoon to scrape the lid clean. Now imagine an entire block of this creamy, flavourful delight..

Gourging complete, we again boarded the Metro and made our way back to the hostel. Feet tired and thoroughly spent from the long day, bed was of the highest priority.